Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

27 Novembre 2018

Lingerie and swimwear styling used to reflect unachievable standards of perfection for female bodies, creating an unnatural silhouette by moulding, shaping and uplifting. Unique by Mode City, the trade show for intimate apparel and swimwear held July 7 – 9 in Paris, showed us that a more natural look is emerging, driven by body acceptance, new technologies, and the hybridization of intimate apparel, swimwear, sport and athleisure.

The new attitude was driven home by the #IFEELUNIQUE swimwear show the first day of the exhibition. The show featured 16 real women of all shapes and sizes, selected for their unique physical attributes and positive body acceptance.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

At Interfilière, which ran concurrently, textile innovation met the demand for comfort as well as for beauty, with an increased focus on sustainability that felt right for the times.

What’s sexy now?

“Women are changing; comfort is a global must,” insisted Jenny Wigham, who presented the Concepts Paris trend report.

According to her presentation, fabrics overall are lighter and more refined, with an emphasis on a natural handle. Stretch laces, meshes and tulle are taking the place of more constructed fabrics, as the “bralette” and softer shapes prevail, with less padding and underwiring.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

Classic cut and construction are being revived to provide support. While the T-shirt bra continues to be a wardrobe staple, light weight spacer knits are providing coverage with comfort and stretch.

New knitting machines and technologies, including warp knit, seamless and flat bed, are enabling the creation of custom engineered shaping, pattern placement, and zones of variable modulus. Nike’s Flyknit bra and other innovations from street, sport and athleisure are inspiring lingerie design.

Pyjama dressing returns, functioning as outerwear; best in shirting stripes, figurative prints, or a new range of super soft cellulosic textiles. Velvet textures add richness to swimwear fabrics, loungewear, and lace.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

Print design for beachwear and swim takes its cue from the Black Panther movie, mixing modern graphics with rescaled tribal motifs and exotic nature

Sustainability drives innovation

It wasn’t long ago that “recycled” textile products were perceived as dirty or of lesser quality, and undesirable for use in next-to-skin apparel. But a new generation of sustainable fibres and fabrics at Interfilière proved that sustainability is driving innovation and finally capturing the imagination of brands and retailers.

Derived from pre or post-consumer textile waste, or from biomass, the sustainable fibres incorporated in the latest fabrics included Q-NOVA, ECONYL, RECO, and Mipan Regen nylon; NEWLIFE and REPREVE polyester; and EVO bio-based polyamide, said to reduce fabric weight by 25% whilst offering better elasticity.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

New and noteworthy is SEAQUAL, a polyester fibre being spun into both filament and staple yarns, made entirely from plastic waste recovered from the bottom of the ocean. The recycled SEAQUAL is said to be able to create fabrics of the highest quality.

Headquartered in Spain, the business employs fishermen to bring Mediterranean garbage to shore; and plans to expand its operations to six global locations in the future. “We want to be a catalyst to incentivize the industry, to educate and inspire,” explained managing director Michel Chtepa.

Sofileta, which received Interfilière’s Performance Designer of the Year award this season, is one of the first mills to develop a range of SEAQUAL fabrics as part of their Green’oblige range. The French mill supplies performance fabrics for sports, fashion, lingerie, swimwear, and technical end uses.

Eco-Smart stretch

The invention of elastane several decades ago revolutionized the intimate apparel and swimwear business. However, most elastane yarns have struggled to meet the challenges of sustainability.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

With a major presence at the exhibition, Asahi Kasei’s ROICA Eco Smart offered a new solution: the first ROICA yarn with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content. In addition, the Eco Smart yarn breaks down quickly without releasing harmful substances at end-of-life.

Uwe Schmidt, managing director for Asahi Kasei Spandex Europe, pointed out, “With polyurethane it’s impossible to recycle, so we had to find a different way to re-use industrial waste in our process.”

ROICA Eco Smart was used by the most innovative knitters in combination with other sustainable yarns, resulting in beautiful textiles that were 100% sustainable. These included Iluna Group for its Green Label lace collection; Penn Textile Solutions and Penn Italia for their Ecoinnovation family; Piave Maitex’ 100% ECO offerings; Sofileta’s Green’oblige fabrics; Maglificio Ripa for their Crystal stretch velvet styles; and Tessitura Colombo Antonio’s Eco-Lace, dyed with natural dyestuffs derived from plants.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

In addition, international brands Wolford, Hanro, Cosabella, and Daquϊni included ROICA Eco Smart in their collections.

Cellulosics: the new silks

Traditionally considered a high-end option for intimate apparel (as well as for fashion); silk has recently come under scrutiny as a non-sustainable animal fibre. And whilst consumers are once again gravitating to the soft touch and absorbency of natural fibres, they continue to prefer the ease of care found in synthetics. Sales of cellulosic fibres for apparel textiles have increased by 99% from 2006 to 2016.

Created from cotton linter using a closed-loop process, sustainable Cupro fibre was first made by Asahi Kasei in 1931. With the aesthetics of washed silk, Ipeker’s range of Cupro fabrics was centre stage at Interfilière’s Trend Forum, made up into luxurious pyjamas in the season’s colour range.

Ipeker’s Cupro fabrics have been designated as “vegan silk” as no animal protein is used in the yarns or finishes. The fabrics are breathable and cool to the touch.

Naia, Eastman’s brand of cellulosic yarns launched in 2017, is an evolution in performance and aesthetics for acetate. Available as multifilament and micro fibres, in both bright and dull lustres, “Naia will do everything from lace to velvet,” according to Terry Lawler, fabric design manager for Eastman.

Produced in the US under EPA standards, the fibre is created using wood pulp from certified forests. The company believes that Naia, with its softness, breathability, and ease of care, will change the perception of acetate.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and InterfilièreSexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

Fabrics made of Naia were on display at a number of mills, including Best Pacific, Iluna Lace, Ipeker, Sanko Tekstil, and Sofileta.

Lenzing’s TENCEL brand is also finding favour for intimate apparel, including MicroModal blends with cotton for warp knitting (at Penn Textile Solutions and Piave Maitex); TENCEL A100 for lace and embroidery; and filament TENCEL Luxe, appropriately dubbed “sustainable silk.”

Custom design and service

Millennial-driven, independent brands continue to multiply, increasing the demand for custom design and service. While business is challenging, the creators of textiles for intimate apparel and swimwear are stepping up to the plate and engaging their customers through custom design and stock service.

Sexy’s ‘New Attitude’ at Unique by Mode City and Interfilière

 

For example, Penn Textile Solutions’ Dream Shape Magic is a knit-to-shape, light and supportive bra and panty requiring less sewing. The company recently launched a new website with a “fabric finder”, and their Atelier des Tulles features three key styles stocked in 100 colours, along with 17 additional mesh styles in half a dozen colours each.

“We can propose, but what matters is what the brands want and need,” said Piave Maitex sales manager Antonio Battagin.

 

Roica in latest collections at Interfilière Paris

27 Novembre 2018

Roica in latest collections at Interfilière Paris

A number of brands will be exhibiting their latest developments for the modern wardrobe featuring Roicatechnology at the upcoming Interfilière Paris trade fair, which take place from 7-9 July. The latest collection of superior functional fabrics dedicated to specific needs of the contemporary consumer will be on display.

Roica expert representatives will demonstrate the products’ functionality, their advanced colour technology system, and show visitors a range of stretch innovations, from shapewear to soft compression. The Roica booth will provide an insight into conscientious advancements and creativity, divided into threeModern Wardrobe concept zones: Roica Lab Zone, Roica InnovationGallery Zone, and Roica Lifestyle Zone.

Roica Lab Zone

Roica Lab Zone will navigate visitors towards the latest hi-tech modern wardrobe solutions, featuring the latest premium stretch performance offered by Roica Eco-Smart family and Roica Feel Goodfamily, designed to exceed contemporary business and consumer desires.

“This zone will inspire you as you encounter the next level of innovation achieved by Tessitura Colombo,” the company explains. “Distinguishing Roica as a trailblazer, Tessitura Colombo uses award winning Roica Eco Smart family and reaches a new level of advancement ahead of all others. Tessitura Colombo’s Natural Dye Collection, entirely made of Eco-Lace, offers a colour palette of sophisticated shades created using amazing natural dyestuff on all eco materials used for this line.”

Originally launched three-years ago as a sustainable product range, the 100% recycled premium stretch range is dyed in natural colours derived from plant origins.

Roica Innovation Gallery Zone

Roica Innovation Gallery Zone will showcase lingerie concept garments produced in Japan that will help designers spark ideas for AW 19/20, and a selection of materials produced by Roica partners. Roica partners include: Giemme, Iluna Group, Indesmalla, Inplet Pletiva, Lauma Fabrics/LE Textile, Maglificio Ripa, MG2, Penn Textile Solutions, Piave Maitex, Sofileta, Sportswear Argentona, Taubert Textil, Tessitura Colombo Antonio, and TVB. Roica will also present unique concept garments by Giemme and Maglificio Ripa for the Crystal line. Moreover, two interesting lingerie sets by the Italian lingerie brand Spiman, developed with Piave Maitex fabrics with Roica Resistance, will be on show.

Innovations from Roica partners also include special projects launches. Penn Textile Solutions will premiere its new line,Ecoinnovation, offering a range of products that are sustainable, made of ca. 7 fabrics with recycled polyester and nylon and with Roica premium yarn.

The Crystal Project, a Maglificio Ripa luxury collection of twenty fabrics made with Sensil Black Diamondand Sensil Diamond yarns for underwear, swimwear, sportswear, and clothing developed in cooperation with Nilit Fibers, will also be highlighted. This collection of fabrics uses Roica Colour Perfect family.

Iluna Group launches its Embroidery Division. Staying true to Iluna’s DNA, the introduction of embroidery and guipure are all produced with only recycled materials. The company will launch velvet lace entirely made of sustainable materials including Roica Eco-Smart family. Within the Black Label collection, the Ultralight series is enriched with new multicolour floral galloons.

Roica Lifestyle Zone

Roica Lifestyle Zone will feature international brands including Wolford, Hanro, Cosabella, Simone Perele, and Daquini, which have all included Roica responsible innovations into their collections. Wolford will launch its Aurora line Cradle to Cradle gold certified leggings and pullover. It is the world’s first yarn belonging to the Roica Eco-Smart family with Cradle2Cradle material health certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification.

Simone Pérèle features Giemme fabrics with Roica Resistance family to create a comfy set available in rich colours; aurore, anthracite and cherry, all enriched with precious leavers lace all along the neckline and at the bottom of the top.

Cosabella selected two of Penn’s materials with Roica to design a unique lingerie set: light camouflage lace effect fabric with Roica Colour Perfect family and Flounce of Tulle with Roica Eco-Smart family with reinforced sides.

Daquïni enriched its collection by selecting Sofileta fabrics with Roica Eco-Smart family. The breathable, moisture-wicking, silky soft, high-tech characteristics of the fabric enhance the activewear designs.

Corporate News

24 Novembre 2018

Corporate News

Asahi Kasei’s Roica Eco Smart family of stretch fibre that offers responsible yarns, will be displayed at Premiere Vision Paris’ Smart Square expo, which will be held from September 19 to 21, 2018, in Paris, Italy, Roica experts will display the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) version 3 certified yarn and the Cradle2Cradle Material yarn at the expo.

The GRS certified by Textile Exchange yarn is Roica-constructed with more than 50 per cent pre-consumer recycled content. The Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients Roica yarn is evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health.

Roica partners at the expo include Fukui Warp Knitting in hall 6 booth H15; Iluna Group in hall 5 booth N14 P13; Jackytex in hall 5 booth M24 N23; Lanificio Europa in hall 6 stand D12, F49; Maglificio Ripa in hall 5 booth 5P29; M.I.T.I. Spa in hall 6 booth G19; Penn Textile Solutions in booth 6G17; Sofileta in hall 6 booth H18 6J13; and Tintex Textiles in hall 5 booth N56.

On September 21, 2018, Dr. Stephan Hütte will facilitate an open discussion on ‘Asahi Kasei Pioneers Smart Technology to Deliver Sustainable Stretch Fibres’ with exhibitors and introduce the audience to Roica Eco-Smart family. Hütte will discuss Roica textile innovations for contemporary consumer within the fashion, lingerie, and activewear markets, according to a press release.

Recognising Asahi Kasei for spearheading the premium stretch market, the Dorbinbirn-GFC Global Fiber Congress has invited Dr. Stephan Hütte, development manager of Roica Fibres at Asahi Kasei to present Roica Eco-Smart family at this year’s congress. The Europecentred innovation platform for the fibre industry is a distinguished idea and network generator hosting top-ranking international experts in fibre innovations. The event includes 700 participants from 30 nations and will take place from September 12-14, 2018 in Austria.

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