Conquering the lace market with lightness

11 Dicembre 2020

Lace trends for the 2021/22 winter season

Times are hard, but effortlessness is called for in lingerie.
A look at lace designs for the 21/22 autumn/winter season – albeit virtually at the most recent Intefilière and Premiere Vision – shows that both Chantilly styles and needle-run looks in particular are making a comeback


 Effortlessness and subtle seduction Delicate lace captivates with complex and fine designs. The motifs are mostly minimal and naturalistic but also, unlike the traditional Chantilly style, they feature geometric designs and unusual ensembles of floral opulence – often interpreted abstractly. What’s more, classic black is not necessarily a given. Cross-dyed, spun-dyed yarns, flocked surfaces or a touch of lurex add pizzazz to the lace and sensuality to the skin.

Nude and cosmetic tones are particularly popular basic colours among young lingerie customers. Even undyed laces with their raw colour tone have their place as sustainably produced variants. KARL MAYER’s lace raschel machines in gauge E 28 are perfect for manufacturing these extremely delicate yet seductive pieces.

“E 28 is perfectly suited to produce very fine lace with a highly delicate finish,” explains Jamie Heather, lace expert at KARL MAYER. With regard to yarns, variants with gauges of dtex 22 that are knitted at a high stitch count are suitable for producing extremely delicate fabrics. “The quality of this lace is excellent,” says Jamie Heather.

Alternatively, heavier warp yarns (e.g. gauge dtex 33) with correspondingly lower stitch counts can be processed on a lace raschel machine in E 28 to achieve the desired delicate design appearance. Other must-haves for the 21/22 autumn/ winter season are patchwork galloons made of various lace bands, allovers with striking animal looks, and classic lingerie with smooth yet decorated edges.


 Sustainability in even greater demand In addition to appearance, the environmental footprint is more important to customers than ever before. Manufacturers are responding to the growing trend towards sustainability by processing yarns that are mainly made from recycled pre-consumer waste or PET bottles.

Among the recycled polyester fibres used are DIOLEN®ReCIRCLE products by TWD Fibres and regen™ by Hyosung.
An environmentally friendly version of nylon is also sold under the same brand. Aquafil’s polyamide 6.6 yarn ECONYL®, which is made from recycled PET, has been available since 2011. When it comes to elastic yarns, manufacturers can rely on ROICA™EF by Asahi Kasei or on the LYCRA® EcoMade fibre by The LYCRA Company.

Some lace producers also use renewable, organic dyes. Iluna, for example, has been using vegetable dyes for several years and therefore has a palette of 14 colour shades in its repertoire. The first biodegradable yarns are now also available on the market. 

The first decomposable polyamide 6.6 is offered under the name AMNI SOUL ECO® and is produced by Fulgar. 

Fig. 1: Delicate clip pattern by Iluna in Chantilly  look made of fine polyamide yarn, produced in machine gauge E24
Fig. 2: Lace in minimal design from a JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE in E28, made by
Dresdner Gardinen- und Spitzenmanufaktur
Fig. 3: Classic Chantilly lace from Dresdner Gardinen- und Spitzenmanufaktur, worked on a JACQUARDTRONIC® LACE in E28
Fig. 4: Original lace from Iluna with the color gradation typical of Leavers looks through dense areas of shiny yarn
Fig. 5: Needle-run imitation from Laces & Textiles, Ltd. 
Fig. 6: Delicate JACQUARDTRONIC® lace by Weber Lace, worked in E 24
Fig. 7: Fine, light lace from Chanty (© Chanty)



A fashion Touch for safety

02 Novembre 2020

Masks yes, but with comfort, safety and style too: Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip launch masks with a fashion touch with ROICATM premium stretch yarnLarge companies update their production with high-performance masks with high technical characteristics, the result of their historical experience and thanks to an exceptional partner in common such as the premium stretch yarn ROICATM by Asahi Kasei. And the solidarity race continues to donate them to hospitals and the red cross forced to keep most of the face covered and often for a long time during the day, solutions that are above all performing and comfortable become increasingly necessary.

But that they are also a manifestation of our personality, which remains hidden and entrusted only to the expression of the eyes. Often on the street, sometimes we don't even recognize each other, we are so hidden; and the desire to play down the situation often takes over together with that desire to make oneself recognizable anyway, to possess and express an identity in any case. For fans of escaping homologation (now more than ever obliged and for this reason even more painful) "to the rescue" – and this is the case to say – enlightened companies arrive who have thought of creative solutions for those with masks it has to do all day, at home, at work, during sports and in your free time. To feel more at ease, there are many proposals: more "street style" for sportsmen and young people – inside and out –, more elegant and sophisticated for women. Textile companies have joined in the fight against Covid-19 by engaging in a strong and decisive personal and productive battle, which has seen many of them transform and convert their production units for the production of masks and gowns for medical personnel and the community. Some of the most established excellence in the textile sector such as Cifra, Iluna Group, Rosti and Sitip, have made use of the precious collaboration of ROICATM, the premium stretch fiber of Asahi Kasei. ROICATM is the innovative and smart premium ingredient chosen by these companies to ensure even more comfort and protection, thanks to an exceptional top-level component that gives elasticity for perfect adherence to the skin. Each of the companies then declined its production according to its specificity. And this is their important contribution. Cifra presents the mask in an eco-sustainable version, the ECO-MASKTM, which combines the high performance of Cifra knitting technology with the sustainability of the materials used. The 100% regenerated yarns give life to a 100% sustainable mask with 83% ECONYL® and 17% elastomer ROICATM V550, the cradle to cradle Gold health Level certified stretch yarn that allows excellent and lasting printability, as well as advantages regarding the circular economy as it does not release harmful substances into the test environment according to the hohenstein environmental compatibility certification.


Trust the vibes, energy doesn’t lie!

01 Settembre 2020

Advanced design and sustainability, innovation, aesthetics and quality, made of “ethical” laces and tights of very high quality standards and a careful look at fashion. Iluna Group, strengthened by this heritage, with a smart approach, carefully selected materials, know-how on processes and particular attention to the ecosystem, is a leader in its sector.
With the FW 21-22 collection, Iluna Group focuses on design excellence aimed at perfection driven by this particular historical moment, in which preferring quality over quantity has become necessary: offering ever higher standards of quality is combined with the choice of reducing minimum waste in a way of working that becomes more thoughtful, studied, focused and less hectic.
The range of sustainable products expands by adding to the GRS certified Green Label, the BIOLINE, made with raw materials such as the precious ROICA™ V550 premium stretch fiber which belongs to ROICA Eco-Smart ™ family produced by Asahi Kasei able to combine elasticity and comfort and other benefits in terms of circular economy related to the health of materials, as demonstrated by the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute, and by the world's first biodegradable polyamide 6.6 yarn AMNI SOUL ECO®, fibers that degrade completely in the environment under anaerobic conditions.

Cartella colori naturali

The exceptional natural dyes proposed are made with vegetable dyes extracted from various plants, with a color chart that now has 14 shades, all with solidity within the OEKO TEX® Standard 100 and all GOTS certified. No chemical product is used for the dyes, including the softening finish, for which an equally natural product is used.
All the products of the Iluna Group collections can be made in a recycled or organic variant. Iluna Group participates to Milano Unica and digitally at all sector fairs, a new way of communicating that together with the use of social media - accompanied by the launch last year of the official website and e-commerce with all the collections and the site dedicated to the sale of the exclusive Iluna masks - it can be transformed from a necessity to a great resource and an opportunity to enhance a 360° sustainable attitude. Iluna, even before the pandemic, has always considered the sustainable aspect a priority in its work and now, in the light of this new landscape, the many years of experience gained benefits the company by pushing it to place itself more and more as a precursor of sustainable innovation.

Pizzi Green Label e BIOLINE

The constant commitment to responsible solutions makes Iluna Group the only lace manufacturer to use - since 2017 - transformed stretch in the entire range of its elastic laces. Iluna Group excellence is based 100% on responsible innovation, guaranteed by the most important certifications. The creation of smart lace, strictly Made in Italy, is also Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. Today Iluna is a reference point for international markets and boasts products with OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 certification.

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